As winter approaches, there are a few final tasks that make a huge difference in how the garden performs next year. In our cold-climate garden, two plants always top that list: hydrangeas and roses.
Both are incredibly rewarding in the growing season—and both need a little extra attention before freezing temperatures settle in. Today, we’re walking through exactly how we protect different types of hydrangeas and roses so they come back strong, healthy, and ready to bloom.
Bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) are notorious for disappointing gardeners in colder regions—and there’s a simple reason why.
These hydrangeas bloom on old wood, which means the flower buds for next year are already formed on the stems right now. If those buds are damaged by cold, wind, or freeze-thaw cycles, spring blooms are lost before the season even begins.
Newer varieties, like the Let’s Dance® series, have improved bud hardiness and reblooming traits, but we still choose to protect them—especially young or newly planted shrubs—to get the earliest and fullest blooms possible.
The key timing cue?
Once the plants have dropped all their leaves and gone fully dormant, it’s safe to step in.
Our first method uses a reusable plant protector, essentially a small tent that shields the plant from wind and temperature extremes.
To make it effective:
Using dried hydrangea blooms instead of loose leaves makes spring cleanup much easier—everything comes out in one piece.
To keep insulation in place and allow moisture through, we finish with a layer of netting over the top.
Budget-friendly alternative:
You can achieve a similar result by creating a chicken wire hoop, stuffing it with dried leaves or blooms, and wrapping it with frost cloth or burlap.
For a hedge of young bigleaf hydrangeas, we take a different approach: low tunnels.
This method involves:
This setup is less about warmth and more about blocking desiccating winter winds, which can be just as damaging as cold temperatures.
Making sure the fabric contacts the ground on all sides helps trap residual soil heat and stabilize conditions around the plants.
Some hydrangeas simply don’t belong outside all winter—especially container-grown, borderline-hardy varieties.
For cascading hydrangeas like Fairytrail® Cascade and Fairytrail® Bride, our solution is simple:
An unheated garage that stays just above freezing and receives natural light is ideal. The plants remain dormant but protected from extreme temperature swings and drying winds.
This method has worked reliably for us year after year.
Tree roses require special care because they have a double graft—one at the rootstock and another at the crown. Cold, wind, and movement can easily damage them.
Instead of burying them or leaving them exposed, we:
They spend the winter tucked against an interior garage wall, safely out of the wind and extreme cold. Even minimal protection like this dramatically improves survival and spring performance.
Winter garden prep isn’t about doing everything—it’s about doing the right things for the plants that need it most.
By protecting:
you’re setting the stage for a healthier, more rewarding growing season ahead.
If you’d like to see how we also winterize our pondless waterfall, fountains, and irrigation systems, be sure to check out the related blog post and video linked here.
Thanks for growing with us 🌱
-Eric and Christopher, Grow for Me Gardening
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